Gemstones are wonders of nature, formed up to several billion years ago under intense pressure and heat deep within the Earth. These precious stones are carefully reclaimed from nature, and in the hands of expert craftsmen, they are shaped into exquisite gems. As light strikes each stone, a stunning display of nuances comes to life.

“The true magic lies in nature. Today, everything can be replicated, but natural authenticity remains unparalleled. Time and pressure have created all these unique colours and features. Gemstones are some of the oldest natural materials on Earth. Each stone has been on a million- or billion- year-long journey before it ends up in a piece of jewellery – and what is so magical about nature is its diversity,” Charlotte Lynggaard says.

In the gemstones, she sees a world of beauty, where natural inclusions and colours are cherished for their individuality. From aquamarines in mesmerizing blues to deep- hued tourmalines and rutile quartzes with glittering inclusions. In earlier times, the traditional gemstones comprised sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds – blue, red, green, and white. Today, the gemstone palette is a rainbow of vibrant hues, remaining highly sought-after.

Aquamarines in varying hues of green-blue.

Charlotte’s fascination with nature and the diversity within it resonates deeply. At first glance, her atelier desk might resemble that of a botanist or a painter. A seashell here, a wild bouquet there, along with a palette of watercolours and small clusters of raw stones. Each item tells a story of inspiration. Charlotte’s passion for the spectrum of colourful gemstones was first introduced to the world through The Lotus Collection – a poetic and pioneering collection featuring a diverse palette of gemstones to explore.

“When I designed The Lotus Collection, coloured gemstones were almost nowhere to be found in Scandinavia. Today, I would say it is a whole other situation,” she says.

The Lotus Collection was introduced in 2010 and has been expanded with numerous new additions up to today. Lotus rings are designed to be worn in single splendour or as a bouquet of contrasting tones, while Lotus earrings can be combined with interchangeable earring pendants.

BoHo ring in 18 karat yellow gold with a large aquamarine and diamonds.

“The fascination lies in mixing different gemstones. It’s all about figuring out which stone and colour match your personality and style. Each stone has its own unique beauty. Therefore, the focus is not on finding identical stones or creating a matching set of similar tones. We can’t dictate nature. Each stone is distinct and expressive. The key is embracing the uniqueness,” she says.

To bring out the full beauty of each gemstone, the cut and setting are essential. Dome-shaped stones, called cabochons, have a smooth, curved surface that accentuates the stone’s natural beauty and play of colour. Facet-cut stones, on the other hand, feature polished surfaces arranged in precise geometric patterns, enhancing the stone’s brilliance by reflecting light within.

“Most cabochons are cut with a quite flat base, but our stones are specially cut to be very deep. This depth reveals an entire universe inside the stone and creates a sense of infinity,” she adds.

Charlotte’s latest gemstone collection, BoHo, features vibrant gemstones embraced by a sculptural touch.

“With The BoHo Collection, it was my wish to make a series of pieces as a tribute to all the wonderful gemstones. Therefore, the settings and details are designed to highlight their beauty. The pieces contain a mix of stones that we have kept in our workshop for years and stones that we have been searching for all over the world for a long time,” she says.

“It all started when my husband and I visited Pietrasanta in Italy a couple of years ago. For centuries, Pietrasanta has been a hotspot for sculptors due to the local Carrara marble and the many professional bronze casters and stone carvers in the town. Here, we took a sculpting course with Eli Benveniste and Jørgen Haugen Sørensen. I have always been fond of modelling with my hands, but during this stay, I got to do larger reliefs, which gave me the inspiration to build up a ring in a new way. In general, I love working with different materials in the inspiration process; clay, drawing, and painting. For The BoHo Collection, I also found inspiration in the Art Nouveau period, the Bohemian lifestyle, and Mother Nature’s wonders,” she adds.

The signature BoHo rings feature large gemstones wrapped in 18 karat gold designs along with white diamonds. Each piece of jewellery is individually shaped and adapted to the specific gemstone – an individual work of art, shaped by its geological journey.

Aquamarine and green tourmalines. The colours range from light blue to dark emerald, giving each stone its own unique expression.

OLE LYNGGAARD COPENHAGEN’s commitment to natural stones and unparalleled artistry naturally involves an ongoing search for those sought-after stones in captivating tones. Behind every gemstone is a long journey, often across continents.

”It is complex and complicated to handle this many different stones, but it is a choice we have made because we want to. It goes back to the early days of the company when my father worked with opals, aquamarines, and many other stones. It has always been part of our story,” Charlotte notes.

“Sometimes it is impossible to provide certain stones because they are simply unavailable, but the limited supply makes each stone even more special. You must respect the stones and handle them thoughtfully, this also includes gentle care and avoiding exposure to perfumes for example,” she adds.

BoHo ring in 18 karat yellow gold with a large green tourmaline and diamonds in pavé.

Before the stones make their way to the company’s workshop, they undergo a meticulous selection process. Every stone is thoroughly assessed by expert gemmologists and put through extensive inspection and craftsmanship procedures. OLE LYNGGAARD COPENHAGEN follows a philosophy of meticulous stone selection, achieved through close collaboration with a select few long-time partners. The vast majority of the gemstones come from a primary supplier with their own cutting facility in India, certified to internationally recognized standards, including ISO 9001, ISO 14001, and ISO 45001 certifications. This commitment extends beyond quality assurance to encompass consideration of the social and environmental impact of their practices.

Article is originally part of The Journal, our new magazine.